Tr3 temperature

It is possible that your thermostat is not operating correctly, that is, not closing completely and preventing the coolant from reaching the correct temp.  This is an easy thing to check.  Remove the thermostat and put in a small pot on the stove and with an accurate thermometer check at what temperature it opens.  Also, it should close completely when cool.

Hey Rich,

This may or may not apply to your situation. When I re-did our car I ran down to NAPA and put in a standard $6 thermostat.  Following this I had lots of cooling and heating problems. I mentioned this to Mark Macy who stated "Well you did put in a sleeved thermostat didn't you?". Following a few moments of blank staring (on my part) Mark was kind enough to explain the difference between these two products to me.

After adding the sleeve thermostat (man these are expensive) and the the appropriate radiator screen designed for our cars "Emily" has been cooling and heating up like a charm.

Once again this probably doesn't fix your problem but it might nip other ones in the bud.

Cheers,

Ray
TR3-A "Emily"
TS54473L

Thanks, Tags and Ray. I am using the sleeved thermostat from Moss in both of my cars, the Tr4 has the same issue. Both cars run fine and I get plenty of heat, for those cars, anyways. The sleeved thermostat is 160 degrees which both workshop manuals say is original. Maybe it's just in my mind that I would like the needle to go to 185F and 70C respectively. I don't have a cooling problem except on a 90 degree day when I'm at a stop light. Then it starts to creep up but goes down as soon as I'm moving. By radiator screen do you mean the cardboard air deflector?

Rich W

Hi Rich,

Sounds like you have all the right hardware installed.  In normal driving I seem to run around 160 degrees or so and when stopped in traffic during the summer I do hit 185-195.

Yes. The cardboard air deflector is the item I was addressing. Sometimes I flash back to our
SAAB 93 that actually had a pull up screen for the radiator. Now those were the days.......dump a
quart of oil into the gas tank, add 6 gallons of gas, pull up your screen and you're ready for a day
of winter driving.

Cheers,

Ray

TR3-A "Emily"
TS54473L

Thanks, Ray. You've given me confidence that everything is "normal". I guess I sometimes worry too much.
Rich W

Hi Rich,

I'm not sure if you ever got an answer on how the id tags under the bonnet are installed. (I think this is your question. If not please ignore.) I don't have a photo of mine but the attached photo comes close to what I believe are the proper attachment devices. However I'm not sure why the tags on this car aren't straight.  (mine are) Just one of those things.

Here is the info from the judging guide:

Chassis Plate. This is a brass plate mounted on the firewall above and left center of the battery. Mounting is done with pan-headed, slotted, sheet-metal screws.

EB Plate. This plate is mounted above the Chassis Plate. Mounting is done with pan-headed, slotted, sheet-metal

screws. The plate is painted body color. Numbers stamped on plate begin with "EB". TR3Bs do not have the EB
plates.

Hope this helps out.

Cheers,

Ray

TR3-A "Emily"
TS54473L

Attachment: engine 4.pdf (59.0KB)

Not sure what the technical name is for those, but the overdrive id tag is held in place by two solid rivets, the type you drive into the material.

This may help.

Attachment: Body Shell ID Tags_R3.pdf (1595.0KB)

That tag article might make an excellent newsletter article...

John:  I'd be happy to provide original MS-Word doc + jpeg photos to the appropriate parties.

Tags

That would be great.Just send it to Jeff Jrupp. His email should be in the newsletter. Thanks!