Winter Storage
Seasonal Storage Checklist
Winterizing
Change oil.
Top up all fluids including gas.
Check antifreeze and replace if old.
Vacuum interior and wash exterior and wax.
Take car for last long drive and be sure it is fully warmed to burn off all
condensation in the drivetrain.
Park car in a safe spot (clean, dry, animal free) where it won’t get banged into.
Put top up and roll up windows (be sure no animals are inside).
Inflate tires to maximum pressure or jack up and keep on stands. Check tires for
damage and dry rot and plan on replacing them in the spring if they are bad.
Park in gear but don’t set parking brake.
Disconnect battery and put it on a trickle charger.
Car cover optional but they can help reduce scratches if clean and nobody decides
to use the covered car as a storage shelf.
Resist the urge to drive it on the one warm sunny day in January. It will run rich
because of the choke and gas will drain into the oil along with water.
Be sure you are covered by insurance in case the storage building burns down.
Spring Wake up
Check fluid levels. If they have dropped, plan on repairs before driving.
Check tire pressure and adjust to correct driving specifications.
Hook up battery being sure terminals are clean and battery is fully charged. Don’t
try to jump start a dead battery since the strain might damage your alternator.
Turn ignition on but don’t start. If you have an electric fuel pump, listen for pump
and check for fuel leaks. Verify all lights and electronics are working.
If you have an electric fan on radiator, be sure it works.
Be sure your fire extinguisher is still fully charged and ready.
Pull coil wire and crank engine over for 30 seconds to pump oil up and through the
system. Watch oil pressure gauge or idiot light until they show pressure. You can
also start the engine without doing this if you are careful and it doesn’t run too fast.
Replace coil wire and start engine. Check engine and fuel system for leaks.
Check headlights, brake lights, turn signals, and all dash gauges.
Check brakes and clutch feel.
Drive a few feet and verify that the brakes actually stop the car.
Check and verify that the handbrake works.
Drive around the neighborhood for a few minutes and return home. Feel each
wheel and if one is warmer than the others, it could mean the brakes are sticking.
Now you can finally take it out on the road but remember to keep a close eye on it
for leaks for the first 100 miles.
For longer term storage, there are additional preparations that should be taken.
This trick may have been offered elsewhere on the forum. Some years ago I was plagued by field mice. They were getting into the engine compartment of my TR250. Their feces and urine are very corrosive and actually lifted the paint. After I cleaned all of the areas so affected, I got a couple of bars of Irish Spring soap, cut them into quarters and spread them around the engine bay, interior, boot, etc. I also covered the exhaust pipe with a piece of window screen. All I can say is, "it works"!
good luck
I too had heard about Irish Spring soap, and placed a couple of bars in and around my TR3 when it was in a rented barn for the winter a few years ago. I soon discovered little bite marks all over the soap, and every time I checked the bars were getting smaller and smaller, with plenty of mouse poop near by. I think the Irish Spring actually attracted the mice, but they preferred to eat the soap rather than the wiring or upholstery, so I guess it was O.K. Now I use the Irish Spring to bait my mouse traps!
Mark
Mark: Did you use the proper Northern Irish Spring soap. The southern version doesn't work! 
I thought perhaps I went wrong by not cutting it into smaller pieces! I was lazy & just placed whole bars about.
Mark
Mark,
Did I miss somthing???
Earl Ferguson
Earl:
Only thing you might have missed is that I found Irish Spring soap attracted mice instead of repelling them. I think trtags was just kidding about northern and southern versions of the soap, but if you want to buy a southern bar down there in GA and mail it up here, I'll compare it to a northern OH bar and let you know if there's really any difference. Maybe I can even find some mice to do a taste test! 
Mark
Mark, et al, maybe you're too yound to remember the strife between Northern and Southern Ireland, thus my bad joke regarding "Irish Spring" soap. I hope that I didn't offend anyone.
Incidentally, I was out in the TR shed yesterday. I checked the '250' and the soap is intact and no nibbles were found. I have also heard that constant heavy metal music will drive out mice and other vermin, seriously. Of course I'd be at the front of the pack lookin for the door.
I thought that maybe the northern version would have some anti-freeze in it, and the southern version might freeze up here and be too tough for the mice to nibble on!
I fill a dried out air freshner with peppermint oil and place it in my engine bay and that has worked the best but needs to re filled once a month, but have tried everything from ultrasonic transducers to bait, but what really works hands down is the garage cat....they have draw backs also!
I seen them used for motorcycle storage, the air flow system keeps things clean, some noise. Not cheap though.
yes. I was a bit concerned about electrical usage.
MOSS MOTORS Item # 238-610
Keeps your car dust free, clean, dry, and protected from rodents, insects, scratches and other dangers. Park the vehicle on the laminated rubber base mat (which is impervious to gas and oil), zip the clear 8 mil PVC double-sewn cover over the car, and plug in the fan which provides continuous airflow to prevent corrosion, mildew, and musty odors. Short or long term storage. CarCapsule operates for under $1.50 per month. Two year material and craftsmanship guarantee.
Fan motor is rated for five years of continuous running. Indoor use only. $380 + SH
Sounds like a very modest cost to run - must look into it.
The only main issue I have known folks to have are leaks and cracks two main causes , with the bags are some of the less expensive ones are made of lower grade plastic, also ones that are exposed to UV ( garage window) , the plastics break down. The ones I had looked at 6 months ago were >$900, and that's is a little too steep for me given potential loss in a couple years. I have had mice in the glove in cars I use every day to ones I have had stored for years, so its mice against men as they say!
Something I wont have to worry about is sunlight through a window since my Amish built has none. But, there is something I don't quite believe is the durability of the floor in these "bags". Sure as careful as one might be, there will be gravel and other trash picked up in the tire tread. So, when you drive onto the floor , wont the tires tend to force this trash against the floor and try to puncture it?
So, I dont believe anyone here actually owns and uses on of these.
I only seen the smaller ones for cycles up close and also seen new small car ones, the pad the car drives onto is firm plastic and the soft bag bonds to the edge of the pad, cheaper ones it is just one big bag. I settled with a wooden frame I suspend from the ceiling and a retangular plastic curtain/bag stapled to the frame, mainly keeps the dust off, no significant contact, and keeps any humidity from rainy days settling onto the car. Every other year I must admit that I vent to myself about getting a garage cat, but wisdom over comes me.....
